 New post
|
 |
| Author |
Message |
1 posts (2.8%)
|
Tech corner >>> 1994 Trans Am stalls while driving.
Written 2008-08-28 03:44:23 (0 days)
Basically I have the same thing as you. What did you do to fix your's? Besides the fuel filter because we already tried that?
|
 Reply
|
31 posts (86.1%)
|
Tech corner >>> Instrument Panel Change
Written 2008-08-25 23:30:05 (3 days)
I have an 89 GTA and an 85 T/A I’ll Like to put the GTA Instrument Panel to my 85 T/A is this possible? Can someone point me in the right direction? I already tried putting it and do not work and the 85 has a speed cable that my 89 doesn’t have.
|
Reply
|
1 posts (2.8%)
|
Tech corner >>> 98 trans am starting problem
Written 2008-08-24 04:24:43 (4 days)
just bought a 98 t/a a few months back and have a weird problem. almost every time i want to start it up, it takes about ten seconds to crank before it turns over. and when it does, it runs pretty rough then smooths out. or if i dont simply crank it forever, i can try to start it once (crank for a second or two) then try a second time immediately following, and will start up just fine. there was a couple of times in the middle of a long trip where at highway speed, i got the same rough running engine, whic lasted about 10-15 seconds, then smoothed out. a mechanic buddy of mine suggested replacing the fuel pump, which is over $350. another mechanic said it was an ignition issue. can someone point me in the right direction.
|
Reply
|
1 posts (2.8%)
|
General talking >>> 78 Formula Production Numbers?
Written 2008-08-18 00:42:12 (10 days)
Hello. I have just purchased a 1978 Formula factory 4 speed with t-tops. I was wondering what the production numbers were for that and I can't find any with both options. Does anybody know if this was rare for the year? Thank you
|
Reply
|
2 posts (5.6%)
|
Tech corner >>> starting problem
Written 2008-08-04 06:24:26 (24 days)
this maybe a long shot but but have you checked the low oil pressure switch. if it doesnt sense the right oil pressure it wont allow the fuel pump to turn on. does the fuel pump prime up when you first turn the key? if the pump primes up check for pressure on the fuel rails with a pressure guage. theres a bunch of things that can cause this but it generally is something simple
|
Reply
|
2 posts (5.6%)
|
General talking >>> t/a transform to a formula
Written 2008-08-04 04:50:48 (24 days)
hi your going make the oustide look like a formula take off all ground effects weld the holes in the doors or get doors off a base firebird get the plane fenders with no louvers, then get 88 -90 base firebird front and rear bumper covers and 16 inch i guess you could call them honeycomb rims not the gta rims shown on your picture. which by the way is a beautiful car. hope this helps
|
Reply
|
2 posts (5.6%)
|
Tech corner >>> 1984 TA Choke Heater
Written 2008-07-23 14:18:57 (36 days)
FYI.... Under driver side dash behind engine analyzer plug in on tip down "Convenience Center"
|
Reply
|
2 posts (5.6%)
|
General talking >>> t/a transform to a formula
Written 2008-07-17 01:05:05 (42 days)
i have a 87 t/a and i want the outside to look like a formula.i have the scoop hood,but dont know what to take off and add to the t/a to finish the outside transfermation.
|
Reply
|
2 posts (5.6%)
|
General talking >>> t/a transform to a formula
Written 2008-07-17 01:04:30 (42 days)
i have a 87 t/a and i want the outside to look like a formula.i have the scoop hood,but dont know what to take off and add to the t/a to finish the outside transfermation.
|
Reply
|
3 posts (8.3%)
|
Tech corner >>> 78 TA 403 won't idle
Written 2008-07-10 00:03:18 (49 days)
Hello everyone! I pulled the car out of storage about a month ago. It ran fine. The car sat for about a month and now it won't idle. I checked everything I could think of, but it all looks ok. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks Nick
|
Reply
|
2 posts (5.6%)
|
Tech corner >>> starting problem
Written 2008-07-03 02:14:17 (56 days)
k i changed the coil, intake air temp sensor, coolent temp sensor, idle air control valve and i took of the injectors and cleaned them and replaced the o rings. Still nothing has fixed it. I ordered a new egr solenoid cause the one in the car is craked open, so maybe that is it. idk.
|
Reply
|
2 posts (5.6%)
|
Tech corner >>> Oil Pressure Gauge
Written 2008-07-01 11:10:28 (58 days)
Thank you!
|
Reply
|
1 posts (2.8%)
|
General talking >>> single barrel carb
Written 2008-07-01 05:33:32 (58 days)
looking for single barrle carb for 67 firebird with 3.3 OHV 6 cylinder, and stock air cleaner assembly for same. 
|
Reply
|
1 posts (2.8%)
|
Tech corner >>> Oil Pressure Gauge
Written 2008-07-01 04:00:27 (58 days)
May be the gauge,more likely the oil pressure sending unit is bad,you can do a oil pressure check to see if the oil switch is OK,if the pressure still fluctuates during the test,may be the gauge!
|
Reply
|
1 posts (2.8%)
|
General talking >>> 79 Trans Am-anyone know any history?
Written 2008-06-30 16:17:53 (59 days)
Hi there,
We just bought ourselves a 79 trans am, while I have gone onto diffrent sites, I am finding it hard to get any specific history on this type of car....can anyone help?
SPEC:
79 TA with 403 olds engine
trans rebuild with all B&M gear
loads of engine work done and lots of crome
full bush rebuild to front end
new edlebrook shocks and springs
rear air shocks
B&M gear shift
|
Reply
|
2 posts (5.6%)
|
Tech corner >>> Voltage Problem.
Written 2008-06-28 02:27:20 (61 days)
rc3po here, Ok, you say the problem is after it's warmed up. 1. Your EGR Valve, to check it properly you must pull the vacum line running to it genlty off, It is NOT suppose to have Vacuum running to it at any time other than under Throttle Only. The Valve itself is not suppose to pull vacuum either. Place your finger over the end of the Line you just pulled off and gently rev the engine up at the linkage, You are suppose to feel vacuum pull on your finger, this known as allowable vacuum. Insert the vacuum line back on the EGR Valve and now without burning your self try and feel underneath the round metal part of the EGR valve and Feel for an opening, your are trying to feel for the rubber Diaphram thru any slot type opening under there, reach over and rev the engine up at the linkage and feel for the diaphram movement inside the EGR housing, If it moves then it is working properly. If it does not then then next step is with the engine runnig at idle try and push that diaphram up and down with your fingers without burning yourself. If you hear the engine change idle or stumble it tell's you that the Valve is ok meaning the Diaphram is not cracked or ruptured, if you are able to move the diaphram up and down and there is no change in the idle it is bad. If you plain cannot move it at all it is stuck possibly in the open position which may be part of the problem. The problem with EGR Valves is since unleaded is just that there is nothing to keep the valve stem clean or coated like the lead in the old Real Regualr fuel now outlawed. 2. Warm up is reached and now you need to check for Vacuum leaks and one way is kinda comical but you'll Freak out if you find a major leak and that is take a long section of fuel line and insert a small metal section at the other end and use it as a Stethiscope like the doctors carry around their neck. stick it down in along the intake valley where the Intake meets the Valve covers and along side the TBI housing and listen for high pitched suction of air being careful not to paste line to close to your ear just in case to not damaged your er drum, make sure you check as many areas as possible even at the front and back of the engine beign careful not to burn or electricute you self. Remeber sometimes the intake may need a retorck, follow the proper torck patterns for tightening even check the TBI base for loose base bolts. Next is a little risky so hae a fire extinguisher available and spray a little carb cleaner along the valley lines and listen for the idle to jump up or smooth out being careful not to let the spray enter the air intake which will nautrally raise the idle. Remeber use extreme caution and have a fiend on stand by for a quick burst on the F.E. Next is the old fashioned way and that is to reach down and gently run your fingers along all the Vacuum lines feeling for air suction on the rubber lines as wtih age some lines plain collapse and are basically corked or disintigrate and air flow is basically open lines pulling in air wildly throwing off all other systems, adding to existing problems. Do not add a performance Module as you will again increase the voltage whch means you will have a really really hot spark that your are trying to send thru the tiny pin holes of those platinum plugs. Go back to regular type plugs staying at the factory heat range and take off the Performance Coil return to the factory range coil and you may reach an acceptable range of operation but your altreations may have triggered situations you may not be able to resolve. Follow the procedures mentioned above to eliminate any hidden bugs and you may get lucky and have the engine go back to it previous state. One last word, Becareful of the missing components that are illegal in some states to remove or alter. Yo can get around this by staying with performance installs that have modified systems for performance and have all the sensors designed into them. I hope this will work for you and if not try and contact me thru this great place for Motor Heads like you and me, Rightcheer, Later Ya'll Oh I almost for got, TBI's require regular cleaning by way of additives and don't forget to check that Fuel Filter. TBI systems are very sensitive to Fuel Filters that start to restrict flow when they get dirty. Feul Pumps are No longer cheap and are all electronic now and some are in the tank. Get the picture.
|
Reply
|
2 posts (5.6%)
|
Tech corner >>> Voltage Problem.
Written 2008-06-28 00:39:56 (61 days)
In my experience with what you describe first of all I see TBI in your specs which tells me you have a computer, in order for the engine to function properly which because you have altered the system it's is now operating differently. It was working fine before. First of all was it OK at a certain time of the season such as Cool Weather to now Hot & Humid or Dry. All these conditions effect you operation especially if the system computer is no longer receiving the proper readings or No readings from the sensors especially if the Catalytic system is gone as you have that listed as an alteration. Again you say it was ok before. let's break it down. 1. you state Platinum plugs were installed which in my experience in trying to enhance performance and power was a big mistake, the Kernel explodes out of a pin hole to the ground which in the design of the plug will slow the burn down. When the burn got slowed down it caused a change in the idle, but remember the computer is now trying to compensate even though you have removed certain components, ie. Catalytic system. Has anything else been by passed? Any way, You need a big FAT Kernel Spark emmission from your plug to maintain the combustion strength that the engine was broken in on, Accel has that type of Plug available with a U Groove in the Arc and big electrode to boot. Have your Alt Analyzed for the 140 amp you say it suppose to be, it won't be the first time some one has needed to clear a certain part off the shelf and pass it off as one amp output when it was a lesser one. let's talk Coil, again you have altered your system, by adding a super or high output coil because it not only increase the spark intensity it raises the internal combustion Temperature which means you have thrown off the air fuel balance since a stronger spark will need an increase in CFM or fuel, Remember when you use to hear someone say I had my carb rejetted, they were increasing the feed of fuel to match the spark and or air if a performance Intake manifold was installed. Your TBI ( Throttle Body Injection ) is not feeding the enigne a good balalnce of fuel and you are or will begin to run hot especially since you say you have a 160 Stat which you need to check and make sure it's not to hot and right there is another alteration or load when you say fan switch which pulls a good load from you alt more than your factory set up. Don't forget anything like a new sound system will pull a load on you alt. I have a strong feeling you were sold a lesser out put alt. Next, Flowmasters are mentioned, which means you have again altered your system this time Exhaust. Your engine from the Factory was designed to run against a certain amount of Back Pressure and when you opened that up the computer can only try and compensate for it which usually will be in fuel consumption, It may be quicker on a dead stop but on the high way the engine has a tendancy to over rev eating more fuel than necessary since it's been Uncorked so to speak. Next Open Element, another alteration since the Intake has sensors that help the computer along with all the other sensors in adjusting Idle, Air Fuel mixtures, Engine Timing for cruising or power increases for loads ( Cargo and Passengers ) and or Air conditioning. I feel all of yur incidents were casued by the Coil that from there has caused a chain reaction of all mentioned. Don't feel bad, you were only trying to do a good thing, But one thing shuld have been Kept in mind. If you are going to modify and upgrade and enhance or as I use to call it Beef It Up you need to keep the Computer in Mind if it has one If you alter one component it will cause a chain reaction of problems that will eventually surface. NOTE, You can only get so much power out of a 305 and that's it and really shouldn't be altered unless it's a minimum of 350 CU. Yo may need to take the Super Coil off and go back to stock and get those Platinums out of there quick and double check that Alt Output and all may go back to acceptable levels. If you got the bug and need to beef up any cars in the future stay with HEI High Energy Ignition systems meanig they operate on a module system instead of a computer which was an upgrade from the old points and condensor cave man setup, but if you do that you need to know all about adjusting air fuel Mixtures, idles and matching components or you'll open up another canof worms. Take a Cousre like I did as a hobby as I turned out to sell Linoclns and Mercurys and now retired.
|
Reply
|
2 posts (5.6%)
|
Tech corner >>> Oil Pressure Gauge
Written 2008-06-23 00:12:19 (66 days)
I own a 2000 Pontiac Trans Am. I am having trouble with the oil pressure gauge. It gives sporadic high readings that mysteriously comes and goes. Could it just be the gauge? (I hope). Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
|
Reply
|
1 posts (2.8%)
|
Tech corner >>> What edition is my 79 Trans Am
Written 2008-06-20 21:42:00 (69 days)
I am buying a Black 79 Trans Am that has the ws/6 package and on the hood it has a gold scoop and a gold oval painted down the hood with a small bird just above the nose. What is this package.
|
Reply
|
31 posts (86.1%)
|
Tech corner >>> Close Loop Problem
Written 2008-06-09 21:18:08 (80 days)
Last weekend I check the timing and I got very surprise of what I saw. I clean up the degree marks and the Damper Mark painted the damper mark White when I started the car with my timing light connected to battery and the magnetic pickup to spark #1 and the brown cable from the harness disconnected. I did not see the timing mark within the range of the timing degrees. Start looking in other places in the damper and I found the mark but it was very far from the degrees mark to illustrate the degrees mark are like 1:00 of damper and the timing mark was like 12:00 of damper this is very strange for me because I thought that if the timing where off by that much the car wouldn’t start at all. Could it be that the engine jump the Timing Change when the Air conditioning belt brake? Please Help this is my daily driver and now I’m Afraid that I might damage the pistons or Valve. The engine do not nock or have mechanical noises it sound grate but the fact that it seems like some pistons are not working but when I drive it goes up to 85MPH no problem.
|
Reply
|
|
RegenT
